I'm trying out a new feature on this blog where I take a popular local restaurant dish and try to duplicate it—to see how close (or how very far off track) I can get. I don't make any claims about being a supertaster or anything, but I do like a good puzzle. I think it would be especially fun because although I have some insights in the kitchen, there are also some significant gaps. My good instincts alternating with bad judgment ought to make for some fine kitchen capers.
It all started last month when reader Karin asked if I could help her duplicate the vegan red lentil soup from Cafe Algiers in Harvard Square. I had never had the red lentil soup at Cafe Algiers. However, I love lentil soup and, even if I failed, a good bowl of lentil soup would be reward enough. Mission accepted!
Over February vacation, the family and I joined our next-door neighbors for some Looney Tunes at the Brattle Theater. Afterwards, I ducked into Cafe Algiers and purchased one container of red lentil soup to go. I did not try to elicit any clues about the contents of the soup lest I spoil my own fun. I sampled the soup outside on the sidewalk. It was indeed very tasty. I helped myself to a bit more on the T. Husband took a taste or three and declared it the best lentil soup he ever had. I couldn't disagree. By the time we got home, there was very little in the way of soup left to do any comparison testing, but it would have to do.
I got busy right away. My two main questions were: 1. Was the soup thickened with potato or just the lentils themselves cooked down; and 2. What the hell is in their spice mixture? I sketched out a simple recipe and started with that, then added spices as I went along. I tweaked and tested as only a Cook's Illustrated reject can do. Meaning I made two pots of soup and called it a day. I settled on no potato, though you could certainly add some if you wanted.
The beauty of Cafe Algiers' soup is its elegant simplicity, but the spices proved deceptively complex. I think I'm close, but it's not perfect. I'm nearly positive one of the mysterious flavors is a heavy dose of fenugreek. There's definitely some cumin, coriander, and cayenne in there. There's a sour note I'm missing that the lemon juice alone didn't provide. Also a faint smoky sweetness that's maybe paprika, maybe something else. Is there a pinch of cinnamon or ginger? I couldn't tell, and I literally pulled a muscle in my tongue trying to find out.
So, Karin, here's my best guess. Make it and let me know what you think. If anyone else can do better, please report back. As usual, I used as many local ingredients as possible, including a lovely bowl courtesy of the Concord Shop. I'll definitely be making this soup again and again. The next time you're in Harvard Square, be sure to bring home at least two containers of the real thing. And if you have any requests for other Boston-area dishes you'd like me to take a stab at, let me know in the comment section.
Red Lentil Soup
Inspired by Cafe Algiers, 40 Brattle St., Cambridge, MA
Heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil in medium pot over medium heat. Cook 1 finely chopped medium yellow onion 3-4 minutes until translucent (don't brown). Stir in 2 tsp. fenugreek, 1/2 tsp. cumin, 1/2 tsp. coriander, 1/4 tsp. cayenne, 1-1/2 tsp. kosher salt, and 1 tsp. black pepper. Add 6 cups water and 1 cup red lentils (washed, any stones removed). Bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low to maintain a gentle simmer. Skim foam. Cook 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until lentils have broken down and soup is thickened. Taste to adjust seasoning. Serve with chopped cilantro, lemon wedges, and a drizzle of paprika oil (1 tsp. olive oil whisked with several shakes of paprika).
Local Sources
Red lentils: Baer's Best, Moraine Farm, Hamilton, MA (via Russo's)
Onion: Red Fire Farm, Granby, MA (via Wayland Winter Farmer's Market)
Bowl/Latte Mug: By Waechtersbach Konitz; Available at The Concord Shop, Concord, MA
hmm, paprika and sumac would not be out of place...
Posted by: grundoon | March 09, 2011 at 11:52 PM
I wouldn't be a very good culinary detective, but it sure sounds like fun!
Posted by: melch | March 10, 2011 at 12:38 AM
I don't usually read food blogs, but the title of this post caught my eye. Must taste the lentil soup in Algiers immediately; this has made me crave it!
Posted by: Lovely Bicycle! | March 10, 2011 at 01:14 AM
Just from reading the recipe I can tell I love this soup!
Posted by: Kalynskitchen | March 10, 2011 at 04:49 AM
Try preserved lemon instead of lemon juice.
Posted by: Lydia (Soup Chick) | March 10, 2011 at 09:13 AM
The sourness is almost certainly sumac. My mom played this game with her favorite lentil soup (from a Persian restaurant in St. Louis) and when she ultimately couldn't crack it, begged the owner for the secret. In that case, the secret was sumac and butter. Butter doesn't immediately come to mind in middle eastern food (and wouldn't be vegan) but it adds a nice rich roundness to the recipe.
Posted by: cycler | March 10, 2011 at 10:28 AM
Thank you for taking up the challenge...and I am glad you liked their soup. I cannot wait to try it. Cafe Algiers did tell me the soup contained carrot but would not divulge the interesting ingredients--sumac is an excellent thought. I have used zatar, a spice mix with a sumac base but did not think to try it here.
When I attempted it I used the NYTimes recipe as a base http://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/09/dining/091arex.html
but although also excellent it was different.
I love the idea of a series that cracks the code....
Posted by: atlantic | March 10, 2011 at 02:49 PM
That's such a cool challenge!!! I wish I was better at detecting ingredients so I could recreate dishes at home. Sometimes I try, and it turns out good, but it doesn't usually turn out like the restaurant version!
Posted by: Liz @ IHeartVegetables | March 14, 2011 at 10:34 PM
I love this idea! Please visit Caffe Graziani in Salem and figure out how they make - well, everything, really - but especially their tomato cream sauce. It's amazing!
Posted by: renekah | March 15, 2011 at 08:22 AM
renekah: Perhaps Caffe Graziani will be my next stop!
Liz: Yeah, my previous attempts at duplicating restaurant dishes haven't turned out exactly the same, either, but I don't mind as long as they're edible!
atlantic: Carrot, huh? I didn't taste that, but maybe that would account for the faint sweetness I detected. I agree that sumac is an excellent call by previous commenters. Be sure to report back when you make it.
cycler: I'm convinced you're right about the sumac.
Lydia: Preserved lemon. Good thought!
Kalyn: Thanks, Kalyn!
Lovely Bicycle: Thanks for reading! Hope you make the trip soon!
melch: Bet you're better than you think!
grundoon: I have some paprika in there, but I think you're right--sumac is the missing link. I hope to remake the soup sometime this week and test our theory. Thanks for the help!
Posted by: Tammy | March 15, 2011 at 08:17 PM
I haven't actually had cafe algier's soup, but I have recently discovered that a certain type of sour in mid-eastern cooking comes from lemon-salt aka citric acid.
Posted by: EJ | March 16, 2011 at 11:52 AM
I was totally coming here to suggest sumac, but others beat me to the punch! Hope it works...
Posted by: emiglia | March 23, 2011 at 08:16 PM